Full disclosure: I went to school with Darrin Marion, now the
craft roaster of fine coffees in my old adopted hometown of Indianapolis, Indiana.
I’ve been chatting off and on with him via social media for the last year or
more, talking about all things entrepreneurial and coffeeish. I finally pulled
the trigger on a pound of his whole bean Signature Blend last week after he
shared a video with me, in which he appeared on local TV in Indy talking about
his small coffee roasting biz.
I was more than excited to receive my coffee in the mail. It
arrived parcel post, taking about three days to get from Indiana to Idaho, in
an air locked gold foil bag; very high zoot. I was therefore assured that my
coffee would be as fresh as possible.
The first thing I did was coarse grind a goodly dose of his
Signature Blend (I used ten tablespoons for a standard large sized French
press, typically called a four cup press) and got the water on the boil. You’ll
want to use filtered water, natch.
The first thing I noticed was that he roasts his coffee
quite light; it’s nothing like what you get from “Big Coffee,” as he says,
which tastes burnt to some of us. Now that the green mermaid has mostly stopped
taking over every other street corner, I believe it might be safer for some of
us to express our true feelings about over-roasted coffee. Darrin’s is
decidedly unique.
I brewed for five minutes, which is pretty standard for
French press coffees. When I took my first sip, I was blown away. Darrin’s
Coffee is like nothing else I have ever experienced. Somehow he has managed to
engineer a roast and a blend that brings the totality of coffee’s flavors to
the fore. His Signature Blend is very full bodied; it explodes on the palate
with an intense cocoa flavor that is balanced with fruity suggestions of berry
and orange. I tried it black first, and for my second cup I added cream and
sugar. It was just as good that way.
The next day I tried using a little less coffee and brewing
his Signature Blend in my Bunn drip coffee maker. This machine brews a full pot
of coffee in three minutes; ideal for drip (you don’t want it stewing for like,
ten minutes or anything). While it was good, with Darrin’s, I personally felt
that it was better as a French press coffee.
And that brings me round to the final verdict. Darrin’s isn’t
an everyday coffee for me. Here’s why: One, it’s best in a French Press (though
my wife preferred it brewed as drip coffee—to each their own, and you’ve gotta
experiment). Two, that implies some attendant ideas about how to best use it;
i.e. making the enjoyment of Darrin’s an event in and of itself. Three, a pound
of Signature Blend costs $15, which is reasonable, but shipping for me was
$7.50. If we’re rounding up, that means I threw down nearly $25 for a pound of
coffee, and that’s probably too much for most of us.
But that’s what makes Darrin’s Signature Blend a coffee for
occasions, as far as I’m concerned. In other words, I think it’s best to brew a
French press of Darrin’s and pair it with a snack. Darrin recommends apples and
almonds for his Signature Blend, but I daresay it’s great with orange slices or
even chocolate and berries. It’s such an intense explosion of flavor, and it’s
so unique—I mean, like nothing you have ever tasted—that it needs to be paired
with something equally as intense that can stand up to it.
Darrin’s Signature Blend is a powerful coffee. Contrary to
what the green mermaid, peace be upon her, might tell us about real flavor requiring
longer roasts, Darrin has managed to extract huge flavor from his craft roasted
blend with a light roast. You'll probably want to try his other varieties as well, including his organic Yirgacheffe, his Sumatra, and of course Kona. He even has Jamaican Blue Mountain, the rarest of the rare. When you open a bag of Signature Blend for the first time, you’ll know
what I'm talking about here. You’ll be greeted with the intense scent of cocoa intermingled
with the slightest berry tartness. It’s a revelation. And while, for me, the
cost makes his coffees a little prohibitive, it’s worth paying more for quality
on occasion. ‘Nuff said, and all the best to Darrin in his endeavors.
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